Overexposing and Using An Eye Lighter
With digital, you are usually concerned about preventing the highlights from blowing out-but with this overexposing technique for portraiture, you want to do just that. By overexposing two stops, you can create procelain skin and incredible fashion images.
The Basic Setup
The background can be simple white paper or a white wall. We used a “tough white” canvas for the sessions seen here. A distance of 5 feet from the model to the background is adequate and eliminates thee need for more lights. For the main light, we use a 36×48 inch softbox and strobe. This is turned to a horizontal position and placed as close as possible to the subject. Look closely and make sure you cam see the soft box’s reflection in her eyes. (Seat her on a posing stool so it’s easy to get close and move the soft box until it’s exactly where you want it.) Our hair light is a 12×36 inch strip light. We use louvers to direct the light exactly where we want it on her hair. For fill, we use a eye-lighter under the subject’s chin. This softens the shadows and places a secondary specular highlight in the eyes.
Lighting and Exposure
Is important to structor the exposure settings so that it all comes together. I set the hair light at f5.6 and place it directly over the subjects head, close to the ceiling. I want the main light to read f/16 on the subject. Be sure the eye lighter is already in place before you take your final reading. The eye lighter will add about half a stop of light, so don’t forget to either lower the power of the main light, or move it back a little, and then meter again. To over expose the image by two stops, my camera settings will be f8 and 1/60 second at iso 100.
Visualization
With overexposing, it’s critical to envision the final image before you snap the camera shutter. I like to leave lots of negative space for a postcard look. Direct your lens so her face is centered; otherwise, the camera will zoom in and out and never find the focas. Then, recompose the face off-center to shoot.
Adding a large fan and a some upbeat music will make this experience more memorable and easier to photograph. This is one time when you’ll want to show her what you’re doing on the LCD screen on the back of the camera.It creates excitement when she views some of the images.
The Eye lighter
I wanted to share some images I did on location.
In the above photo, this is how I normally do a head shot. Using a large umbrella with a Profoto A2 and then angling it to bounce off a eye-lighter produces a soft look and very pleasing, see photo below.
Correct way to Meter
The most important tip is always make sure whatever your using in this case the eye-lighter is in place and the lighting is also in place. Then take your reading!
Where do you place the meter?
Under the chin and point it to the camera.
The Final Touch
You will see that very little retouching needs to be done in an overexposed image.This is because most of the imperfections and blemishes have been blown out, leaving a beautiful porcelain complexion. If any lingering dark shadows under the eyes or in the face need to be removed, that can be done using the Healing Brush or Patch tool. To bring back any detail, use the Multiply blending mode in the Layers palette. You can also use the Burn tool for selective darkening of the eyebrows, eyelashes, and eyeshadow. The lips can also be burned in, if so desired-but sometimes it is more dramatic to leave them overexposed. For the eyes, use the Burn tool to darken the pupil and burn a rim around the iris of the eye. Use the Dodge tool to brighten the catchlight.
In 1993, Walt Disney World in Orlando, Florida, approached Rick to create for Disney a wedding photography department. Rick became the Senior Wedding Photographer for Disney and trained their photographers. Rick was a photographer for ABC’s “Weddings of a Lifetime” and the “Regis & Kathie Lee Show.” Rick currently has photographed “Weddings of a Lifetime” for Disney’s “Free Form” channel.
Rick has owned and operated over five photography studios and operated a photography concession for an international cruise line for three years.
In 1999 Rick wrote his first book, “Creative Techniques For Lighting and Posing”, published by Amherst Media. Since then, Rick has had over eight books published in multiple languages.
Because of Rick’s experience as a photographer, author and teacher, he is asked to speak at professional guilds, conferences and conventions and has taught in the United States, Canada and internationally in the UK, Scotland, and Ireland. Rick currently shares his insights and techniques on social media.
Rick is a Lifetime Member of WPPI, Wedding & Portrait Photographers International, and is a member of PPA, Professional Photographers of America. Rick has an Associate of Science Degree and is a WPPI Master Photographer. Rick has received his PPA Master Photographer & Craftsman degree. He has also earned the honor of his images meriting the PPA Loan Collection and Showcase Collection. In 2006 Rick received, along with his wife, the United Nations Leadership Award from the International Photographic Council at the United Nations in New York City.
Currently Rick is a Lead Photographer and Trainer for Walt Disney World’s Fine Art Department.
- Overexposing and Using An Eye Lighter - September 20, 2023
- Progressive Posing - August 12, 2023
